MENS COLLECTION AUTUMN/WINTER 2009/10
01.12.2008During difficult times, especially, people do not reach out for mass-produced goods, but rather for things which are truly worth the money because they have their own distinctive character. Men, in particular, place their trust in companies which have long been on the market. “When it comes down to it, aren’t we all in search of enduring values?” For the Schneiders Salzburg brand, a traditional label of international standing, this represents a major opportunity.
“The spirit of the past always lives in the present” – this sentence encapsulates the MENS Autumn/Winter Collection 2009/10 like no other.Philosophy, permanence, authenticity and innovation with a keen awareness for tradition, these are the ingredients for success. The subtle luxury and understatement of high-quality craftsmanship and an artisan’s love for detail make the value and durability of the products palpable. The finest quality fabrics clearly demonstrate what true class is all about: it is discrete luxury upon second glance.
On a figurative level, the Schneiders mens creative team found its inspiration in the photographic collections from the 1940’s of famed American photographer, Saul Leiter. In his “Early Color-Band”, the artist speaks a very special, soft, elegant and yet enthralling photographic language. A stylish, properly-dressed look, gentleman-like in appearance, is a clearly evident direction also taken by the sporty Schneiders Mens Collection.
Founded in 1946 as a coat manufacturer, its roots are readily discernable in the new Schneiders Mens Collection. The collection consists mainly of coats, sportswear jackets, “Jackos” and casual indoor jackets. The winter theme, plain and simple, is the BLOUSON in a variety of designs as a sporty nylon creation with a quilted lining, made of micro fibre, Belseta, loden, wool, and as a down blouson. Down jackets and short down coats, as well as field jackets with ergonomic quiltings for a close-to-the-body silhouette, take us to the “Jacko”, a form which blends the classic jacket with an unstructured casual jacket. These are manufactured from alpaca/silk either unlined or with a quilted lining, or from washed herringbone, velvet with loden contrasts or cord with leather pipings.
Silhouettes, in general, become narrower, yet snugness and comfort are preserved through a refined cut. The classics in the collection undergo a subtle renewal.
The contrast between a variety of surface textures, both smooth and rough (loden, velour and smooth leather) is important, as is the lightness and function of materials such as alpaca-mouflon, alpaca/silk and a wintery cotton quality. Stylish understatement is expressed in coats and jackets with the Loro Piana Storm System on top-China quality, 100% cashmere and silk/cashmere. Function is found in the area of Gore-Tex laminate inserts, as well as in rain loden which is turned into sporty parkas and into a pocket jacket for travel.
Loden, an important component of the collection, always receives a new and different interpretation from Schneiders. Taking its place in the Autumn/Winter Collection 2009/10 is a “bonded loden”. That is to say, loden quality is bonded with a soft Jersey of nylon/viscose. A slim-line, Hubertus-style loden coat with waistcoat, or a Caban jacket with or without waistcoat, are the main protagonists in “bonded loden”. The feel-good factor, a sense of safety and security, particularly during “stormy” times, are an absolute given with “bonded loden”, while the pieces also radiate a contemporary lightness.
A special cotton quality, along with high-tech micro fibres, is utilised for a classic trench coat with removable wool lining and for some short coats, optionally with fur lining or collar.
The colour palette of the collection is as subtle as its high-quality manufacture. Bright natural tones, beige, greige, camel, dark green, night blue and anthracite, together with a variety of red tones as splashes of colour.
This is not about quick-lived fashion fads, but rather about sustainability, character, style, details, high-quality fabrics and skilfully tailored cuts.